Thursday, 28 July 2011

Matt Black Spray Primer Reviews

Hello and welcome back our fellow faithful followers of the lord of decay. Now I will be honest I have been slacking off as late with the hobby, its taken me far too long to finish the 4 Orcs on my painting table and they are literally nearly done (pictures of these will come soon).

Anyway with apologies aside a couple of weeks back when I was browsing eBay for cheap Chaos Black spray I thought, "Who says you have to use GW's spray primer?" Nothing against GW's spray primer, I personally really like it, but let be honest £9.50 is an awful lot for what it is, so I thought I would go on the hunt for a cheaper alternative.

Now I have used Army Painters black spray primer, not too my liking to be honest. I felt it went on thicker and after 3 quarters of the can the spray wouldn't come out properly and I had this with 3 cans of of the stuff. Before anyone asks I shook the can each time for the recommended amount of time and I turned the can upside down and sprayed to clear the last bit out of the nozzle.

I had a browse through a variety of forums and I found a couple of spray that people recommended so I thought I would get hold of them and test them out for you guys. I came across Halfords Matt Black spray, which a lot of people swear by and I saw some good reviews on Simoniz Matt Black Acrylic spray.

To test each product I thought I would use it on a piece of GW's plastic sprue and paint on 5 foundation colours. I opted for Dhenab Stone, Iyanden Darksun, Mordian Blue, Orkhide Shade and Mechrite Red. I watered each paint down slightly and did a single coat in a 'test stripe'. After the paint was dry I would try and scratch the paint off.

The instructions on both seemed to be the usual shake for an allotted time and spray about 15 - 20 cm away in a well ventilated area. After spray turning the can upside down and holding the nozzle until the spray becomes clear. Compared to GW's Chaos Black, the recommended shaking time is doubled to two minutes, so it gets a very good mix up before use.

Halfords Matt Black Spray Paint

OK, first up is the very popular matt black spray from Halfords. This is an automotive store here in the UK and they produce their own range of spray paints. The can itself comes in at £7.49 so we are already saving £2.01 per can of spray, but wait the can is also 100ml bigger. That means you are getting 20% more then GW's Chaos Black. This appears to be a bargain already!

As you can hopefully see from the picture above the spray seems to coat quite well. It does look a little bumpy for some reason in the picture, but it looked smooth to me. The paint went on well and when it was dry there was no sign of any markings when I tried to scratch the paint off.

So this brings me to the conclusion of this fine product. Now as far as I'm aware you can only purchase this item in store, as Halfords do not post this item. This will mean it will depend on locality to a Halfords store. It also says on the can that this cannot be used directly on metal and will require a primer, but for plastics (and I assume resin) it is OK. Because of this and the fact that you can only purchase it in a Halfords store I am giving this product an 8 out of 10. This is still a good score and I would suggest to any hobbyists out there to try it.

Simoniz Matt Black Acrylic Spray Paint

I came across this particular spray searching for sprays on eBay. I put its name in Google to see what some people where saying on the net about the product. It seemed to have good reviews, so I thought I would give it a try. I bought it from a Top Rated Seller, they seem to have a good rep. You can find the item here. This came in at £6.89 including postage and packaging. The can was 500ml again, so an even better bargain then the Halfords Spray.

Similar to the Halfords spray, this spray seemed to go on nice and smoothly. The only odd thing with this spray as it has no 'ball' inside when you shake it up. This spray also says it can be used directly on plastics and metals, but it does suggest using a grey primer for best results. The paint went on well and when it was dry there was no sign of any markings when I tried to scratch the paint off.

Now my conclusion of this product is going to be 9.5 out of 10. This is purely because no product can be perfect in my eyes. Until I have problems with this spray I think this is the black primer I am going to use from now on. It's nearly a third cheaper then GW's spray and contains 20% more inside. Wildly available as it bought and shipped from a seller on eBay. It arrived within a couple of days. It goes on well and foundation paints seem to go on well. The only downside I would say is that the seller does not seem to ship internationally and the lack of the mixing ball inside may cause issues. On a plus side you can sand the paint after spraying, so that shows it should be very durable.

And there we have it a couple of reviews on some sprays. If anyone has any other suggestions or comments please post them below. If you see any spray out there you want to try. Always try on a test mode you don't care about or spare piece of sprue before you spray them on you precious models. Until next time may the blessing of the Plaguefather be with you.

Monday, 25 July 2011

Dragon Forge Broken Wasteland Review

Good evening children of the Plague Father thank you for taking the time to peer once again in to the cupboard of our Father. This week was suppose to be me trying to magnetise a pair of Land Speeders for my Black Templar army ( I swear it's real not just a lot of talk ), unfortunately I ordered these online as my LGS didn't have any in and was going to be a 10 day wait for their next delivery. So we got an order together between four of us ( splitting the postage to make me save £3 per Speeder ) and sent it off to Wayland Games and then waited.

Now after a week these were still in processing and raising a ticket just got a generic response of we are having delays which pointed to a notification that they were having delays and the only information about delays on the site referred to delays in May, had it been May and not July this would have been fine ( even an updated notification to say they were delays of over two weeks would have given us fair warning ) but we gave it a few more days and still no change so we requested a refund. I always find it funny how whenever you request your money back there is suddenly a real person looking in to it and wouldn't you know the order was dispatched moments before we asked and would now need to return it after delivery if we still wanted a refund.

Luckily for me I ordered thirty 25mm & ten 40mm Broken Wasteland bases from Dragon Forge on the 5th of July expecting to get them some time in August with them having to cross the ocean and feel the wrath of the Post Office. However my experience with Dragon Forge was like night & day compared to Wayland ( see my rant did have a purpose ). The site was very easy to navigate and use and the only problem I had with it was when I clicked the images to enlarge them they opened in the same page rather than a new tab (that and choosing which bases to buy as they all look fantastic).

The front page of the store had a clear message advising that due to a recent offer ( which typically ended before I made my order ) had caused a delay, along with the 4th of July which had caused the US postal service to be shut but kept this updated when more information as it was available and I never felt like I had to chase Jeff for information on my order which amazingly arrived at my local Post Office on the 21st ( not sure if it was a local mistake by my new Postie or something to do with the amount I ordered but I wasn't charged import tax or a handling fee which made these about £20 cheaper than I was expecting ) and to say I was impressed is an understatement, especially considering Dragon Forge is a one man operation.

Fresh from the sink

Now on to the review itself, they arrived nicely packed in a cardboard box stuffed with newspaper with each individual set in separate bags, which surprised me considering the orders are cast as required but I won't complain at free bags for my bits.

Ready to make a TDA wearer very happy

When I unpacked them the first thing I noticed was the weight, these are solid resin casts and are heavier than the resin used in both Finecast & Forgeworld products making them feel tough and not like one dirty look will lead me to having shards of base in my eye. The detail was very crisp and with very little in the way of mould lines and only 3 out of 40 bases to have any flash on them clean up was a doddle. One thing I did notice is a I left them in the sun to dry on a stone bench and they didn't even give the slightest indication they were about to melt like the Finecast models.

After giving them a quick wash and leaving them to dry over night I gave them a coating of Army Painter Desert Yellow and plan to do the recessed dirt a darker colour to try and match them in my board which is a rocky desert ( even though I can't stand the heat for some reason I like my Bobs to fight desperately for a bit of desert mostly populated with ruins )

Price: 9 / 10
While they seem expensive for something you are using to replace the ones you have already paid for when you buy the models they are reasonably priced, ones that cost more or less are available but the reviews speak for themselves these aren't your run of the mill mass produced unloved bases you need to spend a fortnight making usable.
In the end I just had to consider I pay a lot for this hobby and every time I have tried to cheap out it has bitten me in the face like a daemonic spider of vengeance wanting to know why I thought it was OK to buy cheap second hand models and expect to not have to work on them till they were recognisable again ( not to mention for ten Black Templar Marines using the upgrade pack they are £40 another $10 for bases can't be argued with unless you are on a budget ,in which case you probably won't be using an upgrade pack per squad ).

Daemonic Spider demands you either buy new or don't moan

Quality 9 / 10
The quality is outstanding, crisp detail with little clean up required and the only blemishes I found were air bubbles less than 1mm across and deep which could be filled easily with some glue ( I left mine as were as it's broken ground and the extra diversity is always nice ). The bases are well thought out to be used as a base, I know it sounds obvious but a lot I've looked at while deciding which to go with had rocks/skulls/chickens stuck up everywhere and I couldn't imagine how I would even get a model on the base let alone have it look like it wasn't squashed on there as an after thought.
As I said earlier I managed to prime these yesterday and with the primer on they lose none of the detail unlike a lot of models were the primer seems to kill it until you pick it back out.

Delivery 10 / 10
What can I say 16 days for one man to make and post my bases half way around the world to me has to be a 10 in anyone's book. I just hope that not paying the import tax & handling fee sticks around.

Overall 9.5 / 10
In the end I am glad I bought the Dragon Forge bases as these are the first resin bases I have used and for the extra cost I had my doubts it was going to be worth it but I couldn't be happier with the bases themselves and just hope I do the bases and the models I eventually put on them justice.

One final note these are for my Black Templars and this is one of the terminators I started assembling who will be using the Forgeworld shields & pads to try and make them look as Templaresk as I can ( I have tried using C:SM & thumbed through C:BA / C:SW but if I am going to play a marine chapter it will be Templars and if I'm going down that path they will look the part as best as I can do it ). As a conversion to add that crusading feel I plan to use Dug-a-tron's Thunderhammer conversion, though maybe with Tomb King spear heads instead of chaos spikes and adding a normal marine head instead of the regular terminator one. Now this second conversion I have already done on Bob the test model and would love to get your feedback on if it works or just looks out of place.

Bob took a nasty hacking to the back of the head to bring you this picture

Until next time accept the blessings of Nurgle in to your life and you shall never know death only eternal life in all its forms.


Friday, 22 July 2011

How To Make Urban Barricades

Hello again and we have another treat for your visit to Father Nurgle's cupboard, another terrain tutorial. This week I will be telling you how to make some urban barricades from left over bits. For this terrain you will need to gather:

  • Masonite or thick card for the base
  • Sandpaper
  • Scrap pieces of polystyrene or high density Styrofoam
  • Straws or any other type of plastic tubing
  • Corrugated card (I got mine from the 'sleeve' of a Starbucks coffee, but it can be bought in craft shops)
  • Left overs from your bitz box or anything else you can scrounge
  • Green stuff
  • Mesh
  • Crafts knife
  • PVA glue
OK, step number one is to cut some Masonite to your desired length and width. An important tip here is to cut curving shape, so it is not too straight and rectangular, this makes the edges of the Masonite stick out less. Once you have cut it out sand the edges so that they are rounded.

Now the next step really allows a lot of freedom on your part because basically you will stick random stuff onto the base, try an imagine the defenders have hastily constructed the barricades from whatever is at hand. For example rubble, scrap pieces of metal and tubing, parts of vehicles, sandbags, barrels, etc. Do a 'dry run' first placing the items the best you can before gluing them to make you are happy with the layout. I used a model to make sure the wall was the right height. Once you are happy with the layout start to glue your bits along one of the long edges of the Masonite using the PVA glue.

In my urban barricades I used some left over barrels from some stuff I bought off eBay, straws for the pipes, polystyrene and Polyfill for the wall sections, corrugated card and some left over tank bits from my bitz box. I had two little rubble sets from one of Games Workshops old corner ruins set and some barrels and half a barricade from GW's Battlefield Accessories set that I got cheap off of eBay. Once the glue is dry your barricades should look something like this.

Once the glue was dry I decided to add some sandbags to the barricades, further enforcing how they had been hastily thrown together. I followed a tutorial I found on Miniwargaming on how to make a sandbag barricade and strongly suggest you watch it for this next step as I cannot describe it any better. I have attached the video below.

Once the sandbags are in place, the next step will be to base them. I just based them with sand. Just before it time to base coat them your urban barricades should now look like this.

I did not use a spray primer to base coat the barricades as this would melt the polystyrene. I used a tin of matt black paint i got off eBay that I have used before. At this point I have a bit of a confession to make. You may notice on my finished barricade pictures that the rubble walls look different. The paint I had used before, I had not used on polystyrene and guess what happened. It only went and ate my polystyrene! I had to pick off and clean the sandbags and then use Polyfiller to build up the walls. This took 3 lots and then carved it and sanded it. Put in some bullet holes. I think it looks OK but some areas do not look very good at all.

Now obviously I will be giving you a tip here. Always and I mean always test your paint before using it on some scrap piece of the material you are about to use the paint on. This will avoid the frustration of your models or terrain getting eaten up like a virus only Papa Nurgle can be pleased about.

Anyway, once you have finished paint your barricades, they should look like mine below. I took the photo's with the barricades in my light box (the same one O'Shashar uses) with a spare Chaos Space Marine model I had lying around for scale.

And so there you have some lovely looking Urban barricades for your game board for any type of 40K game, especially for Planetstrike or Cities of Death. Until next time my fellow plague bringers.

Monday, 18 July 2011

THQ's Kill Team and me

THQ's Warhammer 40,000 Kill Team

Good afternoon children of the Plague Father and welcome once again to the Cupboard of Nurgle. Firstly apologises for not posting yesterday however after speaking with a friend he suggested that by posting on Sunday I am not reaching as wide an audience as I could ( not that I expect thousand of willing sacrifices to Nurgle to surface just by a changing the day ) if I posted on a Monday, so this week I am testing out his theory and you get me today you lucky devils.

I had planned to post the next instalment of my Sanctum of the Aquila, however I got a text on Wednesday evening letting me know Kill Team was out. My xbox hadn't seen any action since Fallout New Vegas so I decided to dust it off and download it for a mere 800 points ( which lovely old Microsoft made me buy in 500 or 1000 increments and now have 200 left over ).

After loading it up I decided a Black Templar Sword Brethren or something close enough for me to be happy was the way to go, sadly this was not meant to be as when choosing my chapter to my horror the Crusaders were not one of the 6 chapters available and instead had to go for an Imperial Fists Vanguard Veteran ( wielding a plasma pistol that is weaker than a Librarian's bolt pistol ).

In single player this guy is good but has problems if you get overwhelmed as it appears to occasionally get stunned ( maybe just my "leet skillz" failing me ) though in co-op the melee boost really helps keep your Sternguard backup shooting. Without a doubt the main issue I had with the Vanguard was certain parts of the game you need to shoot a turret whch is out of range of your sword and with a weak pistol it is slow going.

I bought this game to see if I would like Space Marine as watching one marine killing hordes of Orks made something in me say it was just GW trying to make Marines look cool and nothing more. If Kill Team is any indication of the way Space Marine plays then yes it is just hero worship of the marines however ( and this is important ) it took me back to many a game from my youth where you had one guy and his sole purpose was to butcher an entire country with a tooth pick after being forced out of retirement for "one last mission" which always seemed very flaky on why he needed to go on an epic killing spree, and it was amazing. The plain and simple kill them all while we pretend to have a "story" which is so linear it would make Gordon Freeman blush just worked.

Of course I want to moan, I'm English after all

I did have a few problems with it, as I already said no Black Templars and the Combat guys not being quite on par with their shooting counter parts was a small drawback but nothing huge. I do have two things that did annoy me.

1, Cut Scenes - While I love to watch the cut scenes and get the story in a game, with a game that encourages online leader boards with times & scores I want to be able to skip these when I'm playing through again and not being able to got frustrating.

2, Shooting with the right stick - This was the main course of my annoyance, what's wrong with the old point and shoot method. It's simple, easy to do and more importantly it is common throughout games, why try to reinvent the wheel by letting me face left with my left stick while sprinting away from death, press the right "fire" stick and end up sprinting right at the hungry Orks who want to eat my flesh and wear my face as a mask?

Hopefully these won't be in Space Marine but if they are I just hope the combat guys are able to kill everything without having to resort to a 10 minute pistol barrage at a ranged target.

Overall I really liked this game and for an arcade game it was good fun which has got me looking forward to Space Marine ( even if I have to be a Smurf and not a Zealot ) and has even got me painting one of the Orks that live in my bits box ( nothing like a game and a random model to derail your painting plans ).

Until next time apologies for no modelling pictures but I hope you enjoyed my ramblings on a funky little game


Friday, 15 July 2011

How to make smoke/wreckage markers

Good day minions of the Plague Father. Today you get a little treat for your continued visits, if you remember from my last post you may recall that I mentioned about the wreckage markers on the board. Today I am going to tell you how to make them. If I do say so myself they look pretty amazing and take little effort. I remember seeing a tutorial on these about a year ago, but I can't remember where. In case you have forgotten or you are new to this corner of Nurgle's garden here is a reminder of what the markers look like.

As mentioned this project is really easy and really cheap. The materials you are going to need are:
  • A pillow or cushion with polyester hollow fibre filling (try and use an old one or you can use cotton wool as an alternative)
  • PVA glue and an old brush
  • Elastic bands (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Matt black primer spray (or any other colour you fancy)
Now I have seen people paint on the flames over the top, but I have also seen people use LED tea lights inside the polyester, this is the method I opted for. I got mine from my nearest Poundland and got 4 in a pack for £1 including batteries, bargain! There's some images below of them in the packet and when they are assembled and turned on.

OK, the first step is pull off or cut off with your scissors a general amount of the polyester pillow filling. Enough to wrap around the width of the tea light, making is thick or tall as you want your marker. Once you have done this assemble your tea light and turn it on to test it to make sure it is working. Then generously cover it with PVA glue using the old brush. Wrap the polyester around the tea light. For the polyester that is not in contact with the tea light (the part 'above the tea light), use the brush to apply PVA and then glue it to the polyester sealing up the entire seam. Once this is done apply an elastic band around the base of the tea light and another around the top on the polyester that hangs above the tea light. Then leave for the glue to dry.

Once the glue is dry remove the elastic bands. It is now time to trim and shape the 'smoke'. Using your scissors trim the base of the tea light so that the polyester level off with the bottom of the base. Then using your scissors trim the top to the designed length. Shaping the 'smoke is quite easy just pull, twist and tease with your fingers until you get the desired shape.

Once you have shaped your 'smoke' the final step is to spray it using your primer spray. The trick to this is spray from a further distance than you would when spraying your miniatures. You only want it to lightly coat the polyester. By changing the distance between the can and the polyester you will have varying amount of blackness to the 'smoke'. You could even try out your technique on some left over from your pillow or cushion beforehand. Once the paint is dry your markers are done and when turned on should look like this

And there you have it my loyal followers of Nurgle a simple yet very effective marker to use on wrecked vehicles. When the tea light is turned off you can also use them as counters on your vehicles to say that you have 'popped smoke'. Until next time my friends.

Sunday, 10 July 2011

Black Templar Rhino Interior WIP

Good afternoon minions of Grand Father Nurgle it is good to see the ever shifting ebb and flow of the warp has brought you back to our little corner of his garden.

This week I am breaking away from my Sanctum of the Aquila as I have made an initial test list to try and bring my Templars back in to use though I find myself needing three rhinos as I traded my rogue trader Rhinos to Ones_for_the_One_God as I didn't like the mix of old & new sized Rhino's ( I do like the shape of them they were just too small compared to the new ones so had to be all old or all new ). My plan was to finish the Razorback I bought as both Rhino & Razorback and then purchase a second and eventually replace my original new style Rhino which doesn't have any Templar iconography on it (so is clearly not worthy of serving in the great crusade ).

However this was not meant to be as while I was in the FLGS picking up some paint on the advice of Karitas I had a boxed Razorback made to do Jazz Hands ( as well as an inanimate box of plastic can ) in front of my eyes by Dalinair and it came home with me and has forced the first one to have the interior started so I can assemble the second one.

The brown & khaki used were an attempt to contrast with the black

If you are still with me I am impressed as I have rambled on with the background as to why I have started on this model despite wanting to work on my Sanctum. I decided to paint the floor, seats and ramp using Vallejo Hull Red ( I used it on my Kroots rifles and plan to use it on my Tomb King weapons as I really like the warm colour it gives without being over powering ), the walls in Khaki and the gun & console in Vallejo Black ( after testing a few colours for the guns I decided to go with black as most will be using Bolt Pistols which already have chains on them ).

Looking better than black in my opinion though miles off being impressive.

The floor colouring went on quickly and without any grief, however like a fresh faced "newb" I tried painting the Khaki straight on to black. Sadly Khaki is quite a watery paint which suffers from the same issues as white and I should have put an intermediate colour on firstly ( most likely to be Dheneb Stone foundation paint ).

Cant forget to paint the roof...

The roof got the same treatment as the walls. When dry fitting (because I wanted to see if it was worth the effort to paint the inside of a closed box ) I noticed the internal doesn't line up with the recess near the hatches and requires paint in there to avoid a black line.

A little detail on the console

Next I painted a few buttons by the rear hatch and the console with Vallejo Flat Red ( which I may chance as seems a little bright for buttons ) and Dark Angels Green. The keypads on the console I used Vallejo Gun Metal Blue ( I desperately wanted to use it on something and am happy with how it looks in small doses ) with Vallejo Deep Sea Blue for the screens.

Next I need to weather the inside as would expect the doors & floor to have gather dirt in between being scrubbed by the servitors once back with the fleet. In the end I am happy with the progress and don't regret painting the inside as much as I thought I would.

I have learnt a few valuable lessons (more than I expected to with such a seemingly straight forward task ) of which the most important is even part assembled it is a nightmare to try and paint the interior in the confined spaces created by the floor & walls and would encourage anyone planning to paint the interior to do it before assembling it.

Until next time please spread the blight of our Father to all you encounter.


Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Nice an' easy terrain tips

Salutations plaguelings. As promised a few weeks back I have been working on some terrain and thought I would delay it slightly to allow my colleagues to update the blog for a change of pace. I have delayed this somewhat for a variety of reasons. One of the reason being that when I originally wrote this article, just before I was going to post it I saw a very similar post on Miniature Tim's blog on modelling tools here.

Now I think I will start off by giving some tips for those of you out there have no idea where to start and don't have a budget to buy terrain. Home terrain can be effective and cheap. It allows you to turn everyday items into whatever you can imagine. Don't get me wrong the Games Workshop terrain is brilliant, but not everyone can afford to pay the prices they ask for.

I thoroughly enjoy all aspects of the hobby, especially modelling. Whether its the latest release from Games Workshop or some terrain I'm all over it. Now the best advice I can give you if you're thinking of starting terrain building is to gather materials and some tools. Now I got a lot of my tools from Poundland or other pound shops. For some things I shop on eBay. These will be your friends, if I'm ever near one I always go in and see what I can use.

For the tools I would suggest...
  • Bread knife or hot foam cutter (for cutting high density Styrofoam)
  • Xacto Blade/Hobby Knife / Stanley Knife (every war gamer should already have one for cleaning their models from the sprue)
  • Modelling clips or Wire Cutters (again as above you should already have one of these)
  • Sandpaper and files (I would suggest getting a sanding block to save getting cramp in your hands!)
  • Scissors
  • Ruler (preferably metal and 1 metre in length)
  • Hand drill / pin vice (most hobbyists should have one of these)
  • Clamps or vices (handy to hold things together as the glue dries)
  • Various sizes of paint brushes (you definately should have these but I suggest decorating brushes)
Optional Tools include...
  • Hot Glue gun (optional, I find this is useful sometimes)
  • Saw for cutting masonite (optional, only if you want to base your terrain on hardboard)
  • Goggles and face mask (I only use goggles when I'm sanding or cleaning models with Dettol)
  • A multi tool (if your lazy like me these come in real handy)
  • Jigsaw Cutter Power Tool (I picked mine up for £10 from Argos!)
Now the bottom two options I would only suggest if you are either over the age of 18 or if you have a grown up to it for you. If anyone has any further suggestions drop them in the comments below and I will add them on.

Once you have a workplace sorted and all of the tools you require your going to need some materials.
  • Polystyrene or better yet high density Styrofoam
  • Sand (try and get a mix of grades)
  • Gravel/small stones (I managed to get some on my street outside my house)
  • Wire (I suggest getting some garden wire)
  • Corregated card (try and save some of this from boxes, I use the stuff that goes around your coffee at Starbucks)
  • Plasticard or if your really on a budget card (basically the stuff cereals come or even Games Workshop miniatures!)
  • Masonite (used for basing your terrain pieces, but you can use card, but its more prone to warping)
  • Sprue (you should definately have some of this ;) )
  • Straws
  • Plaster / Polyfill (ready mixed if your lazy)
  • Green Stuff / Kneadite
  • Foamboard (I suggest 5mm thick) or if you are really budgeting Cardboard
  • Lollipop sticks and coffee stirrers
  • Toilet/Kitchen rolls
  • Recyclables such as empty cans and bottles. Try and keep the lids as well!
  • 'Granny grating' (the stuff people use for needlework)
  • Toothpicks / Bamboo skewers (can be used as spiky bits or to hold sections of Styrofoam / polystyrene together)
  • Ear buds (snip off the wooly ends and you get nice and thin tubes!)
  • Random bits from your bitz box (you need to start one of these if you do not have one)
Now onto some terrain I have made. I've had this sat in the garage for weeks. It's really easy and quick, however long it take for the glue to dry plus painting it and most importantly it is rediculously cheap! The tutorial I followed can be found at and I am sure some of you may already be aware of this site :)

All I did was use a Starbucks mug and then for the 'roof' I used a very thin piece of plasticard cut to shape. Once this was glued on I added something from my bitz box, along with a lid from some shampoo bottle or something and tubing I collect from ear buds with the ends snipped off. Sprayed it black and then painted it. And tadaaaaaa...

It can also be seen in action in a picture of a game we had few weeks back (See below). You may notice some flaming, smoking wrecked vehicles. Well they will be on my next tutorial update on making more cheap terrain.

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